last year Shui-kun was only 10 years old. i took him surfing with his Mom. this year, we went just the 2 of us. so instead of him looking at Mom every time i asked him a question in English, he looked at me and answered back in English. it was awesome to have a nice man to man chat with this cool surfer kid.
the waves were overhead for him but he was charging big! check out his surfing style! so perfect!
sharing precious time with kids in the ocean like this makes me so happy. i reminds me of all the precious moments i had when i was a kid too. moments that i will never forget for the rest of my life.
Shui-kun asked me to teach him how to do an off the lip. i showed him on the beach as he watched carefully. then when he took off on this perfect wave, i seen him flying down the line.
then he went up and did an off the lip! and freaking made it!!! i was so stoked!!!
great job Shui-kun! you’re the coolest 11 year old surfer kid. so brave and so smart!
i thought the boys went to the East side yesterday so i was planning to foil Bowls by myself in the rainy afternoon. then when i pulled up to the parking lot, i seen Micah’s car. then right when i parked, Tony pulled in right next to me. i was so happy to see my foil buddies! we all paddled out and caught every single wave that came in. not a single wave passed the 4 of us by. here is Micah riding high on one of many.
then the 4 of us took off on a set and rode it together. i’m glad nobody was inside of us trying to paddle back out. that wouldn’t be a good place to be.
Micah grabbed my gopro and took some photos. he’s the best right now and all the rest of us are just trying to catch up to him.
first time i seen myself staring down a chest high wave like it’s 20′ or something. haha.
i tried Micah’s new board. it’s only a 5’2 and felt super good. got on the phone after i came in and ordered my own.
i can actually take off on a wave, ride it all the way to the end, then pump back out to the same exact spot i took off. that was my goal last week, this week, my goal is to take off once and ride 3 consecutive waves. hopefully today! see ya!
