check out this photo. i just caught one of the longest barrels i ever caught in Taiwan. right after i kick out, i see Aoi-kun on the next one getting barreled. then he kicks out and then we both see Kimura-san getting the longest barrel of his life. these are the kind of moments that makes surf trips all worth while. moments like this are priceless…
surfed with Tanaka-san this afternoon. waves were kind of big and wild so keeping calm was the key. i was telling him that the bigger the waves is, the calmer you have to be.
then once he started to relax, he surfed the sets flawlessly.
and turned for the first time. so perfect!
Tanaka-san is only 23 years old and has his whole life ahead of him. he’s been in Hawaii for 2 months studying English and surfing. both doing so well.
rode a few more till the end. awesome surfing dude!
keep your dreams alive Tanaka-san. and keep on surfing…
