i went to check out Diamond Head early this morning and seen something interesting. a very West swell direction with perfect winds. i knew exactly where to go!!!
20 minutes later, i was passing by Diamond Head on Mayuki. i was getting excited as i rode over the long nice swells. i knew we were going to score big time!
sorry no photos from our session as secrets won’t be secrets if i tell everyone. all i have to say is “now one out, glassy, head high, and perfect long rides.” i ended up short boarding all day long. felt good to throw some spray, feel the power of the ocean, and enjoying the ride.
coming back to Waikiki, i couldn’t have been more satisfied knowing that we surfed the best spot on the whole island. it was like a dream boat trip day…
then needed to load up on carbohydrates so went for some black bean seafood noodles. then went for an evening session at yet another secret spot. bigger waves, stronger, and nobody out. i didn’t realize how much i missed my shortboard until i did my biggest carve of the year this evening. so stoked and can’t wait to shortboard tomorrow too!
want to thank Nakahodo-san for the wonderful treats from Okinawa. Haisai!
Tony’s been foiling everywhere pretty much everyday. i haven’t seen him healthier and happier than he is right now. he’s been foiling so good and has almost full control going through all the surfers. like i said, almost…. haha. i still advise my friends to get out of his way when you see him coming down the line…
