look how beautiful this Sumatran wave is! i just love to see barrels like this and now i’m going to be able to surf this perfect wave very soon.
this one too. another perfect Sumatran wave that i can’t wait to experience. and now i’m just a few weeks out, i’ve been in intense training these past 3 days. i put away my foil and got out my shortboards. i’m getting my surfing back to par and i feel confident again. can’t wait!
also getting my dive gear ready because i heard the spearfishing is amazing! and if we don’t catch fish, there will be no evening sashimi parties. the pressure is on!
and yes, i’ll be taking my foil board and hopefully find a little swell to ride with the sea snakes and Sumatran tigers!
i’m on foil break but Tony isn’t. i just love hearing his stories at the end of the day.
respect. that’s all i have to say about this flying Hawaiian.
