here’s how to maximize a day on a surf trip:
get up so early you can’t even see the waves. paddle out and your camera still can’t focus because it’s too dark. and when light breaks, you can see with your own eyes how good it is. can’t beat that feeling!
this wave was right in front of our resort so we had it pretty much to ourselves when ever we wanted.
Matsu scores at first light. he’s always been my dawn patrol buddy.
Chifumi-san’s first surf trip and enjoying every single sunrise surf session.
come back to the beach, find some treasure, and you have the whole day ahead.
eat some lunch at the resort. on this day, mie goren.
then take a nap, jump in the car, drive around to look for more waves, and enjoy another experience.
in this case, a perfect right point afternoon session with nobody out except Eri-chan and Matsu.
then when night falls, Bintang beer and Sinatra Daniels. a perfect ending to a perfect day…
