someone asked me if i would go to South Sumatra again? i told him “not anytime soon because my body is still recovering from the 3 flights, long layovers, and the 7 hour drive from hell. i still can’t believe it took a total of 42 hours to get home.
usually i travel light, but this time, i took everything! just my stuff alone weighted over 50 kilos or 110lbs. i ended up using it all so it was well worth it…
the ginger tea was great with morning breakfast.
and the fresh smoothies were great for the afternoon heat.
i told myself before this trip “hey, go enjoy it! don’t shoot as many photos, don’t go on your computer, and don’t go on your phone so often.” i ended up having much more quality time with surfing, friends, and fun. and when the wifi broke after the 4th day, i was even happier!
it’s unbelievable how many empty spots we surfed.
i surfed 6′ hollow beach breaks, 6′ pipeline like backside waves, and 10′ huge barreling rights. but i was the most scared when i foiled a shoulder high point break. haha.
it’s crazy that an iPhone can take such quality photos like this.
jumped on Mayuki to surf a secret spot. while i was out, 5 Japanese long boarders came out. then when the first wave came in, one of the girls paddled and tried to catch it right in front of me while i’ve been waiting for a wave. ok, now it’s time for some surfing mannerism. most surfers already know this, but apparently some don’t. so here is it:
“do not paddle out, go straight to the peak, and try to catch the first wave that comes!!!!” that is very bad manners! if you start a session like that, you will not be liked and welcomed back. your whole group won’t be welcomed back. i surf this world and seen many people sent in or even beaten up by doing that. this is not only for Hawaii, this is world wide local surfing etiquette. i love Japanese surfers, but i don’t love when they disrespect local etiquette. so next time you paddle out, respect the local surfers that are already out waiting for waves, and wait for your turn!”
foiled again at Diamond Head this afternoon. had the most dangerous wipeouts i had in weeks. but yeah, it was incredible! haha.
