Tokushima Night/River Mouth Day…..

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the other night wa a blast. everything was going ok until jacksan showed up. thanks hashitate for picking him up. after that, it was lights out… oh, wanted to say something about the person in the front. honjo-san is the nicest guy. we use to surf JPSA’s together about 10 years ago. we were on our way back on the ferry to shimoda from niijima island and he offered me a ride home. i asked him to drop me off at the train station but he refused. he ended up driving another hour past his house to drop me off in fujisawa. i will never forget that. one of the reasons i love japan is that the people here are so kind. and honjo-san is one of them. thanks again honjo-san….

this was a late night kampai!!! i remember sneaking out the front door right after this. i heard matsuo was pissed at me for leaving but he forgot about it the next day anyway. haha….

pulled up to this spot this morning. i forgot the name but shit, it was good again. smaller than yesterday but much cleaner…..

a closer view. i swam out to get a few shots after this. i’m too burnt to download the photos now. check them out tomorrow. have a great evening….

hey guys, look what’s on the way! typhoon sepat… south/west swell? umm, i wonder where’s the spot….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide