good morning. 7am here on this beautiful sunny day in japan. gosh, it’s only been 2 days of surf here in shikoku and i’m kind of burnt out. i’m as black as can be, my eyes are red, my face is sunburned, and it’s only the beginning. i’m not complaining but when the waves are good, it’s good. the waves dropped a little today but there still should be some fun ones. i’m going to get a few this morning. had a great dinner last night at morimoto’s. thank you yasan and tomoko-san for the awesome dinner. i’m still full…
after i surfed a couple hours yesterday, i went and grabbed my camera. shooting is so fun and i love to just be in the water. check out some of the photos….
starting off with the lineup shot. this was toward the evening. i took this photo right before i left to go back home. imagine, i left waves like this. so think how good it was earlier….
this is kaori mayaguchi. kaori-chan just got back from europe 2 days ago and was already back out in the water ripping. this is one of japan’s top women pro surfers….
kenta hayashi rips. this kid surfs light and fast. he could take off on a knee high wave, and pull a big air off his first turn. this is japan’s top gun right now…
yoshiji’s a local at this spot and has it down. i’ve probably seen him get over a 100 barrels since i started surfing out there. i’d say he averages about 300 barrels every typhoon season. i wish it was me. i saw him last night and he told me that he’s going to give me his waves next typhoon. well, that was after a few beers. haha….
i’m always stoked to surf with matchi. we’ve been surfing together for over 15 years and we have just as much fun as we did back then. throughout the years, we’ve gotten some of the best waves of our lives together. it was 8 years ago when we went to the mentawai’s. matchi and i were the only 2 guys out at perfect epic 4-6′ HT’s for a couple of hours getting barrels after barrels. it will never happen out there again. and it was 10 years ago when matchi and i were the only 2 guys out at this outer island spot in shikoku. that day was 8-10′ and smoking. scary but smoking. that’s just two of the hundreds of sessions we had together. it’s so amazing how i can remember every surf session for the past 20 years. the time of day, the wave size, the spot, who was out, and the board i was riding. and it’s so funny how i can forget everything else like birthdays, meetings, and sometimes my own name… haha…. have a nice day….
look what’s on the way guys. get your guns out and get ready for some huge barrels….
