HE>I

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yeah, Takeda-san’s been coming to Hawaii for the past 10 years ever since i met him at Narita Airport. and of those 10 years, today he caught the most waves! caught so many at Bowls that he had a hard time paddling in.

the waves were so fun! super long rides and many many smiles.

looking tired, but happy!

then we went to eat a warm local style lunch.

we checked Diamond Head right after and there was nobody out!!! so we got our boards out and paddled out! so lucky to surf such a good wave with nobody out.

Takeda-san was ripping! surfing so smooth and super fast.

and also got to see the real foil in action.

super stoked session.

me too.

these are the kind of photos i can get on my foil. it took me a couple heavy wipeouts, but the drone look is looking sweet.

thank you Takeda-san for the wonderful day. see you tomorrow for more Boot Camp! also want to say hello to Michiko-san and Manoa-chan back in Japan. Papa will be home soon!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide