oh my gosh, the waves came up yesterday morning and nobody knew. surfed 2 hours in the morning, the snuck back out after lunch for 3 hours of fun, fun, and fun! it’s so cool seeing everybody around me surfing and having so much fun. enjoying the ocean, getting better and better, and all the smiles. smiles you can’t get on land. the ocean here in hawaii is my medicine and won’t be able to live without it. i’ve been feeling so great recently.
when i was a young teenage amateur surfer, i honestly thought that my surfing career would be over by 30 years old. not only is everything better now, everything is a lot more fun. i’m getting more barrels, i’m getting more time in the water, i’m making more friends, and life couldn’t be any better.
i’m kind of riding a long perfect wave now in my life and i hope i never wipe out!
LIVE THE LIFE YOU LOVE,
LOVE THE LIFE YOU LIVE.
that’s me!
have a great day!
