i get my brand new magic board out. i only rode it once before and was waiting for a day like today to test it out on good quality waves. not even 30 minutes into my session, i got run over from head to toe.
luckily i dive away from the deadly fins coming straight for my head. instead, my surfboard takes the impact. i’ve been surfing for over 40 years and i’ve never in my life had this happen to me. i was so pissed off that i didn’t know what to do! luckily, the guy who ran me over was Japanese so i calmed down a little because i like Japanese. i even apologized for yelling at him when we got to the beach. from his expression and mannerism, i could tell he was truly sorry.
my magic board is destroyed. it’s beyond repairable to work how it use to. i’m shocked but my friend later told me, “lucky it wasn’t your head.” yeah, i guess so. i was just thinking “lucky it wasn’t my foil board. then i’ll be uncontrollably pissed!” haha.
went after to work on Mayuki. making sure every little thing is perfect.
then foiled in the evening. i told myself “go out and get the biggest wave you’ve ever ridden!” so i paddle out to the outside peak at Bowls, take off on a big set, and ride it all the way in. that healed my wounds and i felt like i just rode a 10′ wave of my life…
then came home and ate a healthy dinner.
it’s weird because i hardly eat salad in Japan. so when i come home, i crave a fresh garden salad.
my third meal of the day with no snacks. i’m feeling energetic and healthy. going to sleep and do the same thing over tomorrow…
