want to thank Matsuo for sending me these photos. seems like years ago. i’ve spent the last 28 years of my life dedicating it to finding the perfect wave in Japan. now my eyes are looking at the ocean differently. the reason is because i ride the waves differently. so when i saw this, i could already see myself flying over sections and connecting waves that could never be connected on a regular short board.
just give me a swell and i’ll ride it like i’ve never ridden a swell before. this feeling is so amazing. i like Kamakura a lot more than i ever did…
after all these years of chasing waves in Japan, nothing has changed. i’ll keep on doing this forever.
so nice to see Tomoki-san at Niseko in the winter, and at Kamakura in the summer. so cool.
surf/snow, and maybe foil in the future? Tokura-san, Tomoki-san, Matsuo, and Naoka. i know you all you boys are interested in the foil now. haha.
Matsuo also sent me this photo of Seth when he first came to Japan. we drove all around Japan and surfed everywhere. this is when Seth was just a little unknown Hawaiian boy that had dreams of becoming a professional surfer. now, he’s living in that same dream he pursued at such a young age.
omg, last night was amazing. started off with this, and ended up with laughs, smiles, and very precious friends that are like treasure to me. life is different for me these days, i’m living life even more than ever. and that makes me a happier man.
my head hurted this morning so went to get some somen at So So So Somen. it was so so so so good!
if you know me well, you know that i love somen so so so much. and now that there is finally a somen shop, i’ll be going there very very very often.
so light, so clear, and so healthy.
this is the special one most people order. look at the egg white! it looks like foam in the ocean! so cool…
it’s amazing how creative Japanese are. you will never find something like this in Hawaii.
then went for some dango dessert. gosh, Japan has the best sweets in the world…
