hey guys, Summer is here and so are the Summer swells. so far, this year has been excellent for surfers. sunny days, warm water, and lots of barrels. what more can you ask for?
i want to welcome Taguchi-san to the overhead club! yesterday was big, but today was twice as big. every single wave he caught was way overhead. and guess what? he made every single drop perfectly. today Taguchi-san told me again that this was the biggest and longest waves he’s ever surfed. that was so funny because he told me exact thing yesterday. haha.
we were surfing the main peak at Bowls so Taguchi-san would catch one, then i would catch one. i even got my personal best barrel of the year on the right out there. the rights never barrel but today, i found a gem! we were both so stoked on surfing!
Taguchi-san was a very happy surfer after riding 20 big waves and surviving. i’m sure he’s going back to Irako and people will be surprised on how good he got. i’m surprised on these past 2 days of his confidence and style. amazing.
sitting in the front row seats enjoying the view.
i passed by Diamond Head on the way home to foil. it looked so good! but it was so hot, i was so tired, and i think i needed a break today. so i came home and did yard work instead.
was looking back at photos from many years ago. this one stuck out because i’ll never forget what i seen when we pulled up to Iwate. total destruction by the tsunami reaching heights of 40′ high. look at that wood stuck in the tree! it was a very sad time in my life to see that with my own eyes, but as time went by, people rebuilt and things are looking a lot better now. it’s amazing how strong the people in Tohoku are.
