Taguchi-san’s biggest wave until now was chest high. so yesterday, my goal was to get him into something bigger. the biggest wave of his life to be exact. and no, he didn’t know that was on my mind. haha. in the beginning we started off small.
then the last wave of our session, a head high set came and he turned around, paddled hard, and caught it. check out this amazing ride!
then when he got to the bottom of the wave, i was yelling “hold on!” then the big white wash came from behind and blew him forward.
he was so stoked to hang on and ride it out. Taguchi-san told me it was the biggest waves, and the longest waves of his life. i love hearing that.
big waves, big smiles.
since it was Big Wednesday, we went to eat a Big Hamburger! so good!
gosh, i miss Japan. it feels like i haven’t been there in so long.
i’m still tripping out on how cute this little pig was. maybe it’s time to go back in the mountains and find a lost baby pig again and bring her home…
