we paddle out to Bowls rights and i when i see a big set coming, i yell “go Ushijima-san!!!” this wave was a beauty!!!
then i waited in the inside to get the shot of satisfaction.
and the shaka sign that means everything is so good.
Ushijima-san is from Toyama. so want to give a shout out to all the surfers at Bouz Surf Shop! can’t wait to surf your guys secret spot again. i’ll never forget that amazing session we all had together about 12 years ago.
more rides, more happy. get ready for tomorrow Ushijima-san!
yeah, i had a few amazing rides myself. the waves were perfect!
met up with my foiling crew this afternoon at Diamond Head. Carter and i trained here so many times so we know how hard it is. it was Toda-san’s first time so it wasn’t easy.
if you foil different waves, you will learn so much. so just by this, Toda-san has become a stronger foiler. he just doesn’t know that yet.
and if you ask Carter how hard it is to foil, he will tell you. but once you get over the steep learning curve, you will foil like a pro. this ride was amazing!
sometimes you come in happy, sometimes you come in not so happy. this sport will bring out the best in you, and it will bring out the worst in you. only the strong survive. Toda-san is strong, so he will survive!
Bowls is so easy so you can surf there for 3 hours and not be tired at all. Diamond Head on the other hand is wild! after one hour, you’re totally exhausted. then the hardest part is hiking back up the steep mountain with your board. this is about the 1000th time i’ve done this.
