gosh, this Summer is amazing! today was way bigger than yesterday so Ushijima-san was super happy! i was super happy because it was 2x bigger than yesterday, and there were 3x less people than yesterday. so Ushijima-san go to surf some amazing rights all to himself.
i was paddling out watching this beautiful wave come in.
this is as perfect as you will ever see Bowls rights.
nice style, nice wave, and nice ride. nice everything.
this is not only surfing, this is freaking art!
so stoked surfers paddling in after a dream Summer session.
when i say “go,” you better “go!” haha.
fresh poke for lunch.
thank you Ushijima-san for the wonderful days of surfing. and thank you for this wonderful treat!
i’ve probably done over 10,000 round house cutbacks surfing every since i was 16 years old. but of those 10,000 round house cutbacks, nothing even comes close to the feeling i get on a foil cutback. i feel like i’m a flying fish! thank you Takami-san for my 100th cutback on my foil. i’ll get to 10,000 very soon.
went to the North Shore to pick up Nakahodo-san’s new foil surfboard. looking so nice!
then went to pick up Nakahodo-san this afternoon for his very first foil lesson. the waves were as good as it gets for the foil. had 6 of us out supporting each other from start to finish. welcome to the cool foiling world Nakahodo-san!
