Love, Life, Hope: She is the Ocean…

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my friend needed help doing some landscaping so i went to Waipahu to pick up some gravel.

one scoop of gravel is only $50. pretty cheap!

loaded up the truck, then went back to town to fill up a yard. i haven’t worked this hard in years. haha.

every time i go to Waipahu, i eat the best Filipino food. here is my favorite pork adobo fried rice omelet. omg!

Jeannie Chesser is the sweetest woman in the world. surfing everyday for fun, and a fine surfboard artist for work. she sent me an invite yesterday to see this amazing movie coming out called “She is the Ocean.” Jeannie has a part in this amazing movie featuring the connection with Women and Ocean. Jeannie lost her only child Todd Chesser to big waves. i will never forget hearing the news of Todd’s death on that tragic Thanksgiving Day. each year passes and i still think about that day. such an amazing pro surfer that was respected around the world. i watched this trailer and it is so powerful. now i’m buying my ticket to watch it at the Honolulu Art Museum. you better not miss it!

https://youtu.be/bPYI7Wvf-VM

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide