it was Boot Camp Day 4 for Michi-san and the waves were much bigger than the past 3 days! took a while to get warmed up but once the nerves cooled off, the rides were amazing!
a very strong and determined girl. every year her level is going up and that’s what i like to see!
great job Michi-san! your last wave this morning was awesome!
i’ve been riding an 11’0 longboard and enjoying the easy rides.
then went surfing with Mr. Inspiration. Fujii-san is inspiring so many surfers that want to surf forever. and now he’s inspired me…
then for my 3rd session, i went foiling with the boys. here is Tony Moniz making the Diamond Head hike…
when i started foiling, i use to sit in the inside and every beginner use to run me over. now i’m the beginner on the outside so it’s my turn? haha. i told this guy today he shouldn’t sit inside of me because my fin is bigger than his. he looked at me like i was crazy.
came home and my friend Chico from 12 years old was at my house fixing his VW. so we popped open a beer and started talking about the good old days. i still blame Chico for turning little innocent 12 year old Kirby into a real life monster. haha…
then had dinner at home. started off with a fresh salad.
then a juicy ribeye steak cooked medium rare. after my 3 sessions today, i needed this protein power! good night from beautiful Hawaii!
