my gopro is acting so weird??? i swear i took some photos yesterday that didn’t upload. but when i hooked it up today, i found them! the Matsumoto-san family!
hot surfing and hot pho!
yesterday the waves were pretty small. so was pretty surprised to wake up to see the waves so giant today! very big and very challenging! oh, and very beautiful!
for Nao-san to even make it out through Rockpiles, that’s pretty amazing. she caught 6 waves today compared to her 34 yesterday. but she must have dove under 50 waves all morning long. it was survivor day…
this is the facial expression of pure stoke. i have this face when i come out of a 8′ barrel. Nao-san enjoying the same feeling on this head high wave. same thing…
a very strong minded girl. lots of surfers would have quit today, but not this one.
if you can go out on the biggest day and ride waves, you’ve overcome a huge obstacle in life. after this, anything is possible. good job girl!
private lunch at secret spot. look how big the meat is compared to the 2 scoops of rice! locals only…
i was surprised to see the Flower of Love sticker on Nao-san’s iPhone. she got it from Eri-chan.
so did i. bringing good luck to all us surfers…
stopped by for the best milk tea i’ve ever tried in my life.
fresh and exciting. this place is the best!
Nao-san wants to learn about the ocean. so this afternoon, i took her to the most wildest part of the South Shore. she surely learned a lot!
