i knew the boys were going to surf the best spot on this historic day so i texted Seth and asked “where you boys surfing?” he text me where and i headed straight there. this is something i couldn’t miss!
pull up and see Seth, Joshua, and Benji paddle out. then seen coach Rainos Hayes getting ready. Nao-san and i started talking story and then i seen Seth take off on a big wave, race down the line, and do the biggest air i’ve ever seen in my life! bigger than Kelly Slater, bigger than John John. i couldn’t believe when he landed it!
then as Nao-san and i paddle out, Joshua was paddling in. he said “uncle, this is the best i’ve ever seen this place!” i asked him “then why are you going in???”
he said “i broke my board so i’m going to go get another one.” what??? i was watching some of the best barrel riding i’ve ever seen in town. and the boys were so stoked!
then 15 minutes later, i see Benji Brand swimming in. he broke his board too! so i ask him “did you see Seth’s air?” he said “no, but Seth told me that that was the biggest air he did in his whole life.” what?? that means bigger then the wave pool? bigger than Japan? bigger than Hunnington? i was so stoked to be able to see that! good to see you boys hunting for the best wave on the island and finding it. thank you for telling me or we would have missed out. lucky…
