Day 2 Boot Camp with Matsumoto-san. still had some Hurricane waves so we went big today! no room for mistakes so we took it step by step. first, look forward!
second, pop up, keep your knees bent, and look forward!
third, put your hands up for balance, and look forward!
forth, smile and enjoy the ride. and look forward!
then it was Matsumoto-san’s time to do it on his own. we surfed the outside all morning so there were still some big sets coming through. we had some amazing rides!
then it was time to go up a level. changed to my high performance board and told him “nothing changes, just keep calm and look forward!”
and so easily, he got up and rode his last wave as good as anybody could. lots of confidence, lots of rides, and lots of smiles. good job Soldier!
then went to pick up the girls and had an amazing afternoon. started off in Chinatown!
gosh, i love this place. no tourists, no overpricing. Chinese and locals only. that’s why it’s so cheap and delicious…
then did some driving around to some amazing places. the air was fresh, the view was beautiful, and the girls were happy.
thank you guys for the amazing day! i had a great time. please have a safe flight back to Nagoya and keep on surfing…
