Hurricane Surf Season in Hawaii

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thank goodness i’ve kept this all these years. it’s helping my sore shoulder from playing too much. good to get the shock treatment when i wake up every morning…

Nao-san took this photo from her hotel. look at the last hurricane waves! you will never see swells like this lining up so close together. well, maybe you will see it again this week as another hurricane approaches…

so stoked to see Hattori-san surfing better and better each day.

surfing so calm and making no mistakes.

another beautiful day and ride in Hawaii! good surfing Hattori-san!

good to see Local Boy Ronnie out enjoying the SUP!

how did i meet Dave? well, about a year ago, Dave found my gopro in the parking lot. somehow it fell out of my car. he was nice and honest enough to call me up and return it to me. so i see Dave in the water yesterday. i told him how i lost that exact same gopro 6 months ago in the ocean, and somebody found it and returned it to me again. this is the same gopro that got lost twice i’m using to take this photos. he said “unbelievable.” yeah, it is pretty unbelievable. i just think i’m a very lucky guy…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide