just a couple days ago, the weather was perfect.
and the brightest rainbows out. hard to believe a hurricane is coming…
and just a couple days ago, i was surfing with the boys in perfect weather.
it was Sonosuke-kun’s turn! 9 years old and super stoked on his first wave!!! look at his stoked face! haha… i’ll post more photos soon…
because just 2 days ago, i jumped on a little airplane to Molokai for research and relax!
yes, i know there was a hurricane coming, but i’ve been tracking these things in Japan for the past 26 years so i know not to panic…
did like i do always in Molokai. live the slow life and live off the land. fresh opihi with a cold beer. can’t beat that…
with the Catagory 5 hurricane right offshore, the slow life continues. sat on the beach and watched locals living very calmly. while the whole island of Oahu was in panic, Molokai was just simply Molokai.
a few of my friends were worried about me getting stuck there. but for me, there is nowhere else in the world i’d rather be stuck at. so flying on the little plane leaving was pretty sad. i’m totally in love with this wonderful place…
and when i approached Oahu just a few hours ago, i felt sick…. jumped in the truck and seen traffic lights, people panicking buying every drop of water, and even some road rage. it’s crazy to think that this island was once like Molokai.
anyway, the crazy thing about this hurricane is not too many people in Molokai knew about it. there was a little airplane flying around with the pilot saying “HURRICANE WARNING!!!” i looked up and thought to myself “wow, old school…” but hey guys, a hurricane is coming so please keep calm. just like surfing, panicking won’t do any good for anyone. be safe…
