so stoked to see my nephews driving around the whole island and looking for the best waves. and so stoked to see that they found it. Seth Moniz@Neverminds.
i already knew that i wanted to surf the most wildest spot for this hurricane. it’s always been like that for the past 26 years so nothing has changed. yesterday, this was that spot. and right when i jumped in, 4 big obake sets broke right on my head. it was time to keep calm…
took my oldest nephew Noah with me yesterday. he wanted to check out the hurricane swells so was cool to come in and have a Big Swell beer with him. i love this kid…
ok, 4 days ago seems so long ago! but looking back reminded me what surfing is all about. it’s all about having fun. look at Ryu-san surfing while his 2 sons were watching!
perfect style, perfect smile. good job Ryu-san!
Shunosuke-kun was surfing really good too. catching waves by himself and figuring out the ocean. it was so cool to see.
and while his little brother and Father was paddling back out, he was smiling back in. so nice…
i had to get this shot of Sonosuke-kun with Diamond Head in the back. score…
and this was my goal again. to get the 3 of them on the same wave! another day of happiness…
all 3 paddled for the same wave, but it was Sonosuke-kun’s day as he rode it the farthest…
thank you boys again for the amazing days of Boot Camp surfing. can’t wait to see you guys next year!
