Molokai mo Bettah

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Tani-san surfing so good! i took him to 2 spots yesterday morning and let him choose which one. he chose the better spot for sure! look how perfect it was!

smooth faces for smooth turns. awesome style!

i couldn’t help but ride a few of my own. but gosh i wish i had a foil on this board!!! haha…

great surfing again Tani-san!

i really don’t like seeing doctors. and i really don’t like walking down these halls at hospitals because it makes me so nervous. and i especially don’t like being scolded by my doctor. he’s been calling me for the past 6 years to come in for a checkup. i told i’m i’m so sorry but i’m the kind of guy that won’t go to the hospital unless i feel like i really have to. so the next time i go, i’ll be going in for my eye surgery. until then, i’m going to continue enjoying my life to the fullest. and by all means avoid hospitals!

i read this article about the locals in Molokai blocking that mega-yacht Ulysses that tried to dock in the Molokai harbor. the 116 meter $250 million yacht tried to go into Molokai but local surfers and fishermen lined up and blocked the harbor entrance. it was a show of pure power and not even the police could do anything. there is no way the locals of Molokai are giving in. i respect that so much because all the people want to do is keep Molokai, Molokai.

i go to the Molokai harbor often and if i seen this giant yacht tied up to the dock, i would throw up. it would definitely be the beginning to the end. and no way the Molokai people are willing to let that happen. they would rather die.

anyway, the article was very interesting and made me realize the only way to keep Molokai from being exploited is for the people to stick together. if i lived there, i’d be holding those guys hands and be blocking the channel entrance too.

last, want to thank Ryu-san for the heartwarming email. i’m so happy to see you and your sons having such a great time in Hawaii. i truly believe that those precious moments together will be everlasting memories. you are a great Father and have 3 amazing sons. keep on smiling and keep on surfing. see you boys again soon!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide