super lucky to surf Rockpiles with nobody out! Tani-san and i had it to ourselves this morning for 2 hours!
yeah, i’d be smiling too. haha. waves came up so we just took turns riding wave after wave.
and turn after turn…
after 3 days of surfing, Tani-san’s level went way up. so smooth and so controlled.
cutback after cutback, this is the way to surf!
hot pho for lunch. thank you Tani-san for the last 3 lucky surf sessions! hope to surf with you in Shikoku someday!!!
then picked up the girls for the afternoon session. more good waves, and amazing long rides…
whenever i go traveling, i always buy something. it’s just a way of supporting their economy, and it’s just a way of remembering that specific trip. so when i walked into a small shop in Molokai, this fisherman was selling fishing lures he custom made. this one was made out of koa wood and was so beautiful.
it’s called a popper and when i reel in my big Ulua with it, i will email Natog the photo. but for now, i keep it on my desk because it makes me want to go back there soon…
