good to see my Jamaican friend back in the water. he’s been out with a shoulder injury for the past 9 months. he’s one of the happiest surfers in the ocean but he told me he was suffering because he couldn’t surf. but now that he’s back, he told me that he’s felling “Irie!” which means “great!”
Abe-san feeling irie too! super cool surfer that’s been surfing Hebara for the past 30 years. i just paddled out and watched him enjoy his very first session at Bowls.
yeah, yesterday evening the waves just came up for a reason. just an hour of pumping chest high sets and we were super stoked!
i’ve been feeling irie too. just surfing and foiling everyday without any complications. i can jump on either and feel so free…
a beautiful spray is something a foil can’t achieve. so when i surf, that’s all i want to do…
last wave in for Abe-san. so good!
thank you Abe-san! your road to be a volunteer translator for the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo is very near. wish you the very best! make friends and make peace!
a girl asked me in the water where my favorite country to surf is. i told her “Indonesia.” she asked “why?” i told her “it’s very rewarding to travel half way around the world with good friends, paddle out to spots you’ve never surfed before, take off on waves and pulling into the finest barrels of your life. then when you come out, all your friends are watching from the boat that’s anchored in the channel.” what else more could you ask for? i’m feeling so irie!
