good evening. wow, the waves looked small this morning when i checked
it. but as the day went on, it got bigger and bigger. i seen some 8′
sets at a secret spot near diamond head. the biggest swell in history?
ever since i started surfing, this has to be the biggest south swell for
me. not just big, but powerful! the ocean is alive! i had fun surfing
and am glad to be here in hawaii at this time. i would have bummed if i
missed out this swell. stay tuned for photos later.
i bumped into wade, reo, and wakita at ala moana park. seen ross
williams, brock little, kai garcia, and so many other friends i haven’t
seen in a long time. i even seen mark healey going out near diamond
head. this swell is bringing out all the best surfers in hawaii and
i’m stoked to be surfing with all these guys.
this swell is dropping but expect perfect barrels for the next few more
days. have a great evening and see you in the water.
Surf Your Dream!
