another day of perfect waves. and another day of morning till evening in the ocean. here is Troy serving up the morning off the lip…
ok, i’ve been teaching this kid how to surf for the past few days. he’s a great listener and a very smart kid. so i already know he will get better soon. BUT, i was in for a surprise when he took off on his very first wave at Bowls this morning.
i was following from behind when i seen him torque his body, raise his hands, and push on his back foot. i wasn’t expecting this because we didn’t get to that part of surfing yet.
then Shunsuke-kun freaking did an amazing off the top!!! what??? i couldn’t believe my eyes!!!
then he did another one, and another one as i was following him in awe…
then ended the wave with a cutback. i asked him after “what was that??? how did you learn that???” he said “it was my first time. it felt so good!” omg, this kid put together the past 3 surf lessons, figured it out, and showed me how it’s done. i was speechless after…
then we went to eat some poke and talk about our next lesson. i told him “i’m sure your Dad will be so stoked to see you surfing like this!” Shunsuke-kun told me he wants to surf even better than Dad. haha.
Ono Seafood in Kapahulu. make sure you choose the #1 and #7 combo over brown rice. the best!
thank you Maki-san for sending me this photo. i can’t wait to foil again!!!
look at my delicious deer meat dinner! so lean with lots of protein! just what i needed…
