we hardly get hurricanes coming to Hawaii so the ocean is so unpredictable. i never expected the afternoon conditions to be like this. it was so glassy that i felt like i was in Indonesia or something. we call this “The calm before the storm.”
Park-san on Day 2 Boot Camp. charging the big sets all by himself.
i just love to ride the same wave, take photos, and watch the happy facial expressions. when the ocean makes people so happy like this, it makes me happy like this too. that’s what connects us to each other.
another amazing day for all us surfers that were in the ocean yesterday.
after my 3rd round, i seen Chizu-chan in the parking lot. she was getting ready to paddle out and i told her “the waves are so freaking good. be back soon.” i was back soon and the waves got even freaking better!
after Chizu-chan caught this super long left, she paddled back out smiling and said “this is like the Surf Ranch wave pool it’s so perfect!”
i caught a wave after and when i was paddling back out, i saw her take off on one of the most beautiful waves i’ve ever seen. it was peeling from Rockpiles left all the way across to Bowls.
i was yelling as she was flying down this perfect wave.
i surf here almost everyday and only seen this perfect swell direction with perfect light off shore winds like this a couple times in the past 10 years. it was so perfect you couldn’t even call it Rockpiles. beats Kelly Slater’s wave pool by a hundred times. not man made, it’s mother nature made. can’t be ever duplicated so this is the only wave like ever since this world was created. think about that for a minute…
then Chizu-chan paddled back out and got another one and another one. no smelly chlorine and no entry fee for this free water park! and only one person at a time. look how empty it was!
there were only a few of us that caught his perfect session of a lifetime. if you missed it, you might have to wait another 10 years. thank you Hurricane Olivia for giving us this special session most surfers can only dream about…
