i always try to explain to people about opening up your leading shoulder. look at this and i’ll explain again. look at my left hand going left and starting the maneuver. in this case, a cutback. after my left hand leads, i keep my left shoulder open as it follows. then my board will follow right after that. notice my hand is up at shoulder height. then look at where my eyes are looking. not up, not down, but only in the direction i want to go. not too much, not too little.
and remember to relax your face and body. that’s why i tell everybody to smile. when you smile, your body softens up. when you’re tense, your body is stiff as a pole. so smile and enjoy the ride. then paddle back out and do it over and over. then simple maneuvers like this will become so natural…
that’s your surfing lesson for today. now go and try it!
