to my recollection, this Summer has to have been the best year in waves. a couple hurricane swells and multiple South swells. it’s already October and the action doesn’t stop! way overhead and no winds so i went to check out my secret spot. and omg, nobody out and it was amazing!
passed by Big Rights on the way back and seen huge swells hitting the lineup. there were only 4 surfers out??? i caught 4 waves, 2 were barrels, and 2 were 4 turn waves. 5′ sets and probably the best barrel of the year for me! so stoked! i came back to Mayuki and was so happy! look behind me and you’ll only see 5 guys out at epic Big Rights! so dam lucky…
yes everybody, i’m enjoying my vacation. supposed to be elsewhere but since that didn’t work out, i’m right here and loving every minute of it…
came home and prepared my own dinner. ate alone and now Mateus came to sleep over. better go give the little boy some love and attention… good night.
