Thunder, Lightning, and Earthquakes…

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aloha, got up this morning and felt a lot better. my body still feels poisoned but i can actually walk today. my heat was one of the last heats before they stopped the contest due to low tide. low tide here is crazy shallow. no water at all. the waves are still barreling but if you eat it, you will hit for sure. it was round 2 four man heats. the heats were 25 minutes so plenty of time to get 2 scoring waves. i got a couple of barrels over the dry reef and luckily made them. got 1st and will head to round 3 this evening or tomorrow morning. as for the weather? it sucked. it was raining and cloudy all day. but that made for epic glassy conditions. oh, and last night was a trip. thunder, lightning, and heavy rain. and not to mention a couple of earthquakes. the lightning was coming down right outside our window. the thunder was rattling the windows too, and the earthquake was shaking my bed. after that, i couldn’t sleep. all i was thinking was “tsunami”. and if there was one, we would all find out by getting a big wave over us. we are staying right on the beach and there are no emergency systems here. it was kind of freaky but i got through the night was was happy to wake up this morning…..

we’ve been eating out every night. except for the time i got food poisoning, everything was really good. this night, we ate at this barbecue place about 10 minutes away. it was so good. here’s tokura-san and hayato drinking a cold one. well, not that cold….

we were all ready to board the plane in cebu when we forgot something. jacksan. it was 2:15 and our flight was leaving at 2:30. i ran out of the airport and looked for a duty free. found him, and came back in time. this island we’re at has none so that was big. we stuck a bottled water into the freezer to make ice, cut up 3 plastic water bottles, and had a jack kind of night….

this is kazuya, hayato, and uske eating breakfast at a place down the street called “101”. i ate there today and it was actually really good. i had a spaghetti with meat sauce. it was pretty good…..

this is the place where i got sick. looks good but i guess any kind of contaminated meat will look good after being cooked. sorry, but i could never eat there again. but hayato and tokura-san still go there for dinner…. yikes.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide