what’s up everybody. the contest is going to wrap up today. gosh, the past 3 days have been epic!!! 4-6′ and perfect perfect barrels barrels. yes, yes. the only bummer is the weather has been cloudy and raining. not good for photos but good for surf. i lost in my heat last night but i’m still happy. got to surf perfect cloud 9 three times for 25min with only a couple other guys out. i’m going to watch the final so give you the results tomorrow. see ya.
*as for my stomach, it feels much better but i’m still a little weak. about 8 other competitors got food poisoning too. i saw this australian guy throwing up before his heat and he had a hard time walking down the stairs for his heat. gosh, i know that feeling. it’s the worst feeling in the world. anyway, hope everybody gets better soon….
the other day, hayato and i were walking back to our place when these 2 kids came up to us. one of them said “give me money”. gosh, they must have been only 5 or 6 years old. hayato gave them some candy and they were off. then i saw one of the kids again and he asked me for my surfboard. gosh. i just don’t know what to say….
you want to make good use out of your empty coke bottles? fill it up with gas and sell it. that’s pretty dam smart…..
