Matsui-san either has no fear, or no idea how big the waves have been! it’s only her 2nd time surfing and we were on the outside catching sets. i’m glad she didn’t look behind on this one! haha.
good ride, good smile…
i was kind of impressed because when i said “go,” she went!
good to see some local girls having fun in this late Summer…
after the big sets, the small ones were way too easy…
only trained for 3 years and completed the Ironman competition. that’s amazing!
then went to eat some poke at Ono Seafood! so good!
then my favorite shave ice at Waiola.
then went for a drive to burn off the lunch. Diamond Head was looking super fine.
then it was round 2! Matsui-san surfing so good and so confident. she must have caught 30 waves today. and also threw her board and dove under 40 big sets. such an amazing woman…
