Keep the Green Green…

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i use to be super scared to ride small airplanes like this.

only one pilot so if anything happens, what do i do? i guess that’s why i always request the front seat because i’m ready to take control of the airplane if something happens. i see it in the movies all the time. haha.

i’m so close to the front that i probably can press a couple buttons if i wanted to.

once i arrive, i’m in the most peaceful place on earth. this is where time stands still. this is where i feel like i can be so free. and freedom is a lovely thing for me!

i still can’t believe how green it is!!! thank you to all the rain!

i explored more and more. and now i know more and more that this beautiful island of Molokai should be left just the way it is. the people have been fighting their whole lives to keep it that way and i would do the same.

so leaving is always so hard. new friends, now experiences, and new aloha…

but now it’s back to reality. always a bummer to see what money did to Oahu. and the sad thing is 30 years later, there might be no green left…

i get off the plane and pull up to Diamond Head. see 5 guys out which is way too crowded for me. not today, maybe tomorrow…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide