woke up early this morning and it wasn’t easy leaving the house because today was the coldest morning in a very long time. but once i hit the ocean, everything warmed up. foiled Diamond Head and i have to say that the conditions were absolutely perfect!
came home and made myself a tasty avocado toast lunch with mugicha. so delicious!
then i looked over and over at my new board. brand new and looks so good that i don’t even want to wax it up yet.
this one is a 5’1 and i already know it’s going to be magic.
then as the sun set, i jumped in at Diamond Head again. waves were coming up and absolutely perfect!
i was serious when i said i didn’t want to wax up my new board so i rode this magic one. paddled out, caught 5 waves in 20 minutes, and rode my last one all the way to the beach. it’s amazing how fast i can satisfy myself recently!
the sun set and i watched the lucky surfers enjoying a very rare uncrowded evening. this morning had 50 guys out, this evening only had 10. tomorrow expect 70 in the morning and 40 in the afternoon….
