What is TRUST?

180


it is really sad watching the fire in California destroying whole communities. 9 people dead and it’s far from over. very sad.

and it’s sad to hear of people loosing everything they ever owned. it’s like a real life horror movie unfolding right in front of their eyes.

more sad news about that marine who walked into a college bar and shot everybody. 12 people died in that one. nowhere in this world is safe anymore.

and sad to hear that the hotel strike is still going on after a month. feel sorry for the workers, and feel even more sorry for the tourists.

and feel sorry for the first Victoria Secret model from the Philippines. she’s getting bashed on social media because she’s only half Filipino. half is good because she’s got her whole heart for her country. that’s what counts.

what is trust? trust is letting your friend foil straight to you and watch him foil inches by. that is trust.

i could feel the surge from the foil pass by my legs. if Carter made a little mistake, he could have cut my head or legs in half. and i’m not joking. after that, i thought i was freaking crazy to just sit there taking this clip of him!

so much little things that affect the way you foil. i’m still trying to figure it out and perfect it. and have fun in the meantime…

***my friend Rod just started foiling. he told me “wow, every time i paddle out to a crowded spot, everybody leaves after they see me fall on my first wave.” haha. i thought that was so funny!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide