ok, it’s getting cooler very fast. was driving out to the North shore this morning and it was pretty cold. 18 degrees Celsius to be exact.
it was the start of the Triple Crown so a very important day for the surfing world.
here is the heat results and i hope to see one of my nephews on the top!
Joshua was out practicing this morning. not too many kids have more experience than Joshua out there.
and Seth too. super experienced and i’m hoping these kids do good because Haleiwa is like their home spot.
my sister sent me an invitation a couple days ago. she organized the opening ceremony for the Triple Crown of Surfing. for the past 35 years, nothing like this has ever taken place. my sisters purpose was to thank and pay respect the Kings and Queens of our islands of Hawaii. i had chicken skin all morning and so did everybody else.
WCT surfers and WCT legends all attending. i was standing there in a circle and i could feel the “Mana” or “power” of Hawaii.
Tony Moniz a true Hawaiian paying respect for his ancestors. i’ll explain more about this later but all i have to say for now is it was very powerful. i never seen so many grown men tearing like that. it was all about Hawaiians and Hawaii…
then went foiling the North Shore with Peter King. this guy is a big wave legend in the surfing world. so when i was watching him paddle into shoulder high waves like it was 40′ Waimea Bay, i couldn’t stop laughing. he just started foiling so i know his stoke level is very very high. and that makes me so happy to see that! we scored…
this evening went to Diamond Head to check the waves. then i see a truck back in next to me. it was my friend Kekoa and his girlfriend Teri! they opened a cooler, poured me a vodka drink, and we talked and laughed until pitch dark. i was buzzing and having the time of my life. good talk, good people, and good time. thanks guys for the drinks and laughs. always good to see you!
