Surfing: Not a Team Sport…

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before i started surfing, i use to play baseball. it was a good experience for me because baseball taught me how to be a team player. baseball is a team sport and we use to play as a team. surfing is different. it’s more of an individual sport. it’s just not the same….

picking on one guy on the team is like picking on the whole team. we did it as kids, and these guys are doing it as men. this is what you call team participation. i kind of miss that…

and last, did you know that it’s 80 miles from sunset beach to town if you take the freeway? and did you know that it’s only 69 miles if you go the other way around? maybe next year, i’ll drive back to town the other way around. that way, there’s no traffic and i get a better scenic view….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide