1982 Surfer Magazine Cover….

214


remember this surfer magazine cover shot photo? i do. at that time, i thought that this was the coolest cover shot. and still do. you got mark richards on his lightning bolt twin-fin board , cheyne horan on his laser zap, dane kealoha with his town and country, rabbit barthlemow on a channel bottom single fin, and simon anderson on his new innovative thruster. this was the era where surfers had their own styles and rode their own unique kind of board. to me, these legends paved the way for every surfboard design we have today and every surfers style out there. i’m super stoked to have lived i that era. the new school kids growing up now days don’t know that these guys were the roots to everything they have now. l little bit of surfing history…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide