i looked all over the island yesterday for something to foil. i was willing to drive anywhere but the best spot happened to be 10 minutes away from my house. lucky me…
i’ve been surfing with Tony ever since i was 18 years old. we chased 40′ waves together and had some of the most craziest surf sessions that were never documented. mostly because there weren’t any photographer crazy enough to paddle out to spots Tony surfed. it was pretty much life or death every time i surfed with him, but that made me stronger. and most important, that made me connect with the ocean. so 30 years later watching Tony flow so gracefully over the ocean is awesome.
when i paddle out to any spot on the island, i can tell automatically who’s a tourist and who’s a local. most tourists are cool, but some can be idiots. so after having an incident with an idiot last week, it was nice to meet a Japanese tourist super stoked on surfing. smiling the whole time and just respecting all the locals around him. whoever taught this guy mannerism did a good job.
you respect locals, locals respect you. so simple. sorry i forgot your name but thank you for introducing yourself to me. hope this photo finds you!
i see dogs on the beach waiting for their surfer owner all the time. and each time i see it, i think about Hachiko.
the fun part of surfing Diamond Head is hiking back up the mountain. just ask Tony.
it’s like a full workout! when you get to the top, you’re so exhausted that you can’t even talk. haha.
took photos of random surfers enjoying Waikiki on this Thanksgiving Day.
it was absolutely so beautiful!
i saw 2 Japanese longboard girls out that were having a great time. glad you’re loving paradise!
