once a month, i have a hand roll party at my house. rolling up what ever you want in rice wrapped with nori. it’s amazing!
when i woke up, i looked at Pipeline and said “no contest today.” then i went foiling. got back home at 9am and found out the contest is on standby? what??? i couldn’t believe it! the WSL’s thinking is to run as many heats as possible because the waves are going to get huge on Sunday and Tuesday. probably out of control huge! so here’s my thinking, “what would you rather see? a contest held in chest high inconsistent waves like today? or a contest held in out of control crazy death defying Pipeline that will happen this weekend? and before you answer that question, remember this is Hawaii, the North Shore, and Pipeline. and on top of that, there is a World Title on the line. now take your pick…”
i paddled out early in the morning to get some waves. there were some head high sets and it was very challenging! surprisingly, there were only 2 girls out there. respect!
then came home and ate a custom made chazuke from the leftovers. so good!
then got a call from Tony for a foil session so headed back to Diamond Head. he was waiting at Pipeline all day long because the contest was on standby. must have felt really good when he foiled his first wave…
i did my first full round house cutback today! it totally felt like surfing!
we had so much fun that we ended up paddling in at dark. so happy day!
