took some photos of the locals out yesterday at Diamond Head. so fun!
this guy is a Doctor. hope these photos find him somehow…
awesome surfing Doc!
even on the cloudy days, Diamond Head looks so beautiful.
good to see a happy surfer!
and good to see women surfing as they get older…
and good to see my friend Shane ripping on his foil!
i went back out in the evening to foil and the waves were absolutely perfect!!!
then came home and my friend sent me these photos of the waves the other day in the Philippines!!! this is on his private island!
he invited me over so i accepted his invitation in 5 seconds. now i’m booking my flights as we speak for January!!! can’t wait to surf a secluded island in the most beautiful part of the world with nobody around!!! just me and a few of my lucky friends!!! 2019 is going to start off great!!!