Island Life Style….

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they say not to go to shore while in indonesia. malaria? war? terrorists? i don’t know. but i’m a pretty curious guy. so every chance i got to go to shore, i did. so i woke up at 5am one morning. the tide was low and we had time to kill so i decided to visit a little village near our anchorage. it was kind of scary because the people didn’t seem so friendly. and it can get intimidating when you see men half naked walking up to you with a big knife in their hands waving it around while talking loud in some language you don’t understand. at one point, i was worried. i was thinking that if that guy chopped me up and ate me, nobody would know. so i stepped back and headed back to the boat. i was bummed out thinking why they seemed so unfriendly. then when i looked at the clock, it was still 6:15 in the morning. haha… i think i went to see them too early? the guy was probably yelling at me “hey you idiot, what the heck are you thinking?”… i went to another village near that one later that day and everybody was so kind. i took some awesome video. awesome…. stay tuned….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide