Shikoku Surfer @ Ala Moana

251


new Ford 150 vs old Ford 150? which would you choose?

i’d choose both if i could. haha.

almost a hundred years old and still looking good!

Ford is built tough!

yesterday afternoon i heard this local looking guy speaking perfect Japanese. i asked him where he’s from and he said “Shikoku.” what??? then we started to talk story and come to find out, we know all the same people. haha. Shikoku is a very big island, but very tight surf community. nice to meet you Kai! and nice barrel!

duck dove and seen a lot of fish!

the proper way to duck dive is to time the wave right where you can come up in an open pocket like this. if you can do that, you will have zero resistance. takes time to learn but once you do, life is great!

been a while since i short boarded but still can throw some sprays! this feels pretty dam good!!!

**by the way, HAPPY NEW YEAR 2019 JAPAN! Kotoshi mou Yoroshiku Onegaishimasu! mine will be coming tomorrow so see you soon in 2019!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide