woke up on this last day of 2018 to this! a perfect rainbow!
then driving to work watching the last sunrise of the year…
picked up Shunsuke-kun and the rainbow was still there! look how beautiful this photo is!
Shunsuke-kun surfing better and better each day. i’m teaching him about surfing, about style, and about life. i love it!
and also how to do a cutback just like this!
i rode Seth’s magic board this morning. even though it’s way too thin for me, i was just curious how it worked.
felt pretty cool for an old man to push a young kids board around like this. haha.
Shunsuke-kun catching so many waves improving on every one.
such a great kid!
it’s not just about lunch, it’s about conversations on how to strive for your dreams. i feel like the luckiest man in the world because most of my dreams already came true. so i’m very passionate on teaching kids how to get there. it’s about dreaming big, about planning, about actions, and about never giving up. never!
then went to take my special guest for an afternoon session. we saw a turtle right when we jumped into the water. it was a sign of good luck…
and as we were paddling out, the waves were so perfect and only 2 guys out. we surfed the most perfect setup in town. rode my last waves of 2018 and i couldn’t have asked for anything more. now it’s night and i’m sipping on a glass of whisky planning my dreams for 2019. big dreams!
