the movie Bird Box has been in my mind ever since i watched it. so this morning, i decided to start off the new year differently. it all started early this morning at pitch dark.
i didn’t need a blindfold walking down the cliffs at Diamond Head because i couldn’t see anything anyway. i took small steps going just by feel. if i fell, i would roll down the cliff and my foil board would be totaled. so yes, keeping calm was the key as this was the first time in my life i hiked down a trail with zero light.
i paddled out in the pitch dark too. and when i got out to the outside, i couldn’t believe how big the waves were! big, windy, and crazy! all i could see were the street lights on Diamond Head and dark shades of big swells. it was beautiful!
i was pretty much blind, but decided to start off the new year taking risks. foiling in the pitch dark is not recommended at all. but high risks equal high reward…
the first 2 waves, i couldn’t see anything. i was foiling by feel and it felt so dam good!
it was actually pretty wild. the ocean was super rough and super alive. i was screaming and loving the feeling!
then it started getting lighted, and a few hard core surfers made their way out to the lineup. the waves cleaned up and it was absolutely perfect!
i already had my adrenaline rush so this was my last wave right as the first sunrise of the year was happening. this is called “living the moment!”
i felt like a free bird. i felt like the happiest man on earth!
this is going to be a wonderful year. been planning trips and dreaming big. 2019 is already so dam amazing! come fly with me…
