gosh the waves this year on the south shore has been amazing. best
summer ever! i woke up early and decided to shoot a few photos before i
surfed so i drove around town. i shot bowls, i shot, diamond head, and
i shot a secret spot i’ve been surfing for the past 20 years. check out
this photo. maybe only 2 or 3 of you know where this spot is. the
rights were barreling perfect and there was only one guy out, my friend.
even though it’s a sunday here in hawaii, i’m glad i can always pull up
to my secret spot and enjoy it. look at this photo once and delete it.
thanks.
i finally emptied out my suitcase from my last trip and am getting ready
for another. i’ll be on the road for the next 3 weeks in japan, and
parts of indonesia. exploring, enjoying, and experiencing. it’s time
to go back to work and i’m looking forward to it. see you all!
and thank you all again for the daily emails and the daily comments.
it’s impossible to catch up on my emails but i appreciate every single
one. mahalo!
