went to the North shore today with the Kaneko-san boys. waves were coming up pretty fast!
V-Land was the best spot so we got ready for an exciting session to remember…
everything was going so good. i know Kaneko-san and Ray-kun were nervous but that’s normal. it was the North Shore of Hawaii right? so we paddle out and there were like 40 guys out. some guys shouldn’t have been out there because it was way out of their league. all it took was one inexperienced surfer to panic and throw his board over the wave. and guess who happened to be under his board?
yes, me. i felt it hit and i knew it wasn’t good. i looked at my foot and seen a big hole with my white bone and flesh meat hanging out. i didn’t have time to punch the guy in the face because i knew i was far away from the hospital and i didn’t want to bleed to death. surfed a wave in, walked in the deep sand, then back to the truck. then drove like an ambulance to the hospital. the Doctor said i was lucky because one more centimeter to the right, i would have to have surgery and be in a wheelchair for months. thank goodness…
after some pain and stitches, i was out and we went to get something sweet. i think the boys were more traumatized than me. haha. i’m just fortunate it was me and not them. that would have hurt me even more. but we all learn and move forward…
came back to town and scored some perfect waves! Kaneko-san on the paddle in.
it’s unbelievable how good Ray-kun got today! he was surfing so much better! paddling out to the North Shore, watching the blood flow out of my leg must have gave him some confidence.
went to eat oxtail soup and went over our previous surf session. gave him some tips to take his surfing to the next level…
omg this was good!
then went back to surf and the waves were even better. Kaneko-san got a small scratch coming in.
i told him “don’t you dare complain about your tiny little scratch to me today!” he said “yeah, i can’t after what happened to you.” haha…
Ray-kun had this spot practically to himself. he learned so much about the ocean and surfing today. Kaneko-san and i were cheering so loud watching him surfing so good. this kid wants to be a pro surfer in Japan and i can see it happening… thank you boys for the long day of wonderful experiences!
when the Doctor was stitching me up, i told him “hey Doc, i’m a surfer so please fix me up good. he used extra think stitches and told me “10 days out of the water.” he’s a surfer so he knows exactly what i was thinking…
saran wrap and duck tape is what i’ve been using for years. i’m not sure if it will help the pain though. nobody knows till tomorrow comes…
